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1888 Godey's Lady's Magazine-Color Plate

What They Are Wearing: Lavinia Kettering-Putterham

  • August 5, 2019February 6, 2022
  • by Robinette Waterson

Nothing about Lavinia Kettering-Putterham is subtle. When we first see her in Steam Geared she is described as a statuesque woman wearing a highly fashionable dress and an extravagantly plumed hat. She is truly a talented, inventive, and imposing figure, but her taste is clothing is, well, let us say, definitively not understated.

Possibly she is wearing something like this silk walking gown from 1885-88 in blue silk with asymmetrical trim and a very fashionable bustle, draped and embellished like a drawing room hassock:

1888 Blue Silk Walking Dress
1885-1888 Blue Silk Dress - side view
1888 Blue Silk – Side View

Or she might go with red, which would appeal to her sense of the dramatic.

1886 Red Dress
1886 Red Dress

Or a more sedate olive green Promenade Dress with a “retro” redingote style:

1888 Olive Velvet with Metallic Thread
1888 Olive Velvet Promenade Dress
1888 Olive Velvet Promenade Dress
1888 Olive Velvet Promenade Dress – Side View

Fortunately for Lavinia, the poisonous arsenic greens, Paris green and Scheele green, went out of fashion in the previous decade, but the relatively new aniline dyes, in brighter and non-fading shades of greens, mauves, scarlets, oranges, and golden yellows were going strong.

1880s Dress, Missouri History Museum
1880s Dress, Missouri History Museum
1888 House of Worth
1888 House of Worth

No fashionable lady would consider going out-of-doors without a hat. Lavinia would have no shortage of choices for tall head wear, all trimmed with an extravagance of fluff, feathers, and flowers.

Godey's Lady's Magazine 1888
Fashionable Hats – Godey’s Lady’s Magazine 1888

And finally, for the performance, Lavinia would have pulled out all the stops. Something like this dress in garnet velvet, Alençon lace, and heavily encrusted with pearls:

1893 Evening Gown
1893 Evening Gown – Sleeve detail

(This is the first in a series of character sketches, placing the people of the series Steam Geared in their Victorian milieu of approximately 1888. )

Acknowledgements: Photographs in public domain, courtesy of The Metropolitan, Missouri Historical Society, and National Gallery of Victoria. Illustrations in public domain, courtesy of Google Digital Services and University of Minnesota.

Five Minute Interview with Robinette Waterson
What the Well-Dressed Gentleman of 1888 Is Wearing
Bustle dresses Costumes Victorian history Victorian. Steam Geared
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